PLEASE FOLLOW THIS ADVICE ON BRINGING YOUR NEW KITTY HOME FROM ADOPTIONS!

IT WILL SAVE YOU A LOT OF TIME, ENERGY AND REDUCE THE STRESS FOR EVERYONE INVOLVED!



DO NOT LET  RESCUE KITTIES OUTSIDE!  


They will run away and worse yet, get hit by a car or attacked by another cat or animal.  They have been taken off of the streets for that very reason!  Do NOT put them back out there because you feel sorry about keeping them inside. They are VERY grateful to have a safe, warm home to live in.


Kittens are curious creatures and their first year of life will be spent exploring everything.  Remember, the smaller she is the easier it will be for her to fit into tiny hiding spots and hard to reach places like under the stove or behind the refrigerator.  They love dark places like your kitchen, bathroom cupboards and dark, cozy hideouts like your clothing basket. 


One adopter tragically lost their black kitten in a terrible accident. She was sleeping in the dirty clothes basket that was full of dark colored items. When they went to do laundry, they had no idea she was in there and she got tossed into the dryer on high heat for a 1/2 hour!  By the time they realized what had happened, it was too late and she was dead!  Please keep your eyes and ears open with a new kitten.


After you bring your new kitty home, it is important to follow our agreed upon contract and keep the kitten indoors only.  Studies show that indoor cats live longer than those roaming outside.  It will protect her from cars, other animals, fleas, ticks and deadly diseases.


Think like a kitten and get down on all fours to explore your home from a kitty’s point of view. 


Take your time to do the following steps "before" adopting a new kitty.


  • Make sure all windows and sliding glass doors are shut and have screens so your kitten cannot get out.  It is a dangerous world out there and many fall from unprotected window ledges and balconies each day.

  • Seal off openings under and behind your major kitchen appliances such as the stove, dishwasher and refrigerator, as well as large furniture that would be difficult to move if she gets stuck.

  • Heat sources such as candles, the fireplace, stove and the oven are very dangerous.  Teach your new kitty that these areas are off limits. Say NO to the Kitty!

  • Keep all chemicals stored in a safe place. Do research on the plants in your house - many are VERY poisonous to cats/kittens.

  • Place protective wrapping around electrical cords so your kitten does not get tangled up and choke to death.  Make sure your kitty cannot get into or behind your computer equipment.  They like to sit on top of a warm PC!

  • Make it a habit to keep the washer and dryer door closed and the toilet seat down.  Kittens have been known to drown in the shallow water.  Also, check your cupboards and refrigerator before you close it.  Kittens like to jump in and explore new places!  You could have a kitty popsicle!

  • Keep your kitten away from items she can swallow or choke.  Kittens will put anything in their mouth such as buttons, jewelry, paper clips, string, yarn, small toys, nail tacks, pins, hair clips, rubber bands, nails, coins etc.  Small objects need to be off the floor  at all times and out or reach.  Keep a careful watch at playtime. 

Think of your new kitty as a child.  Be just as protective and watchful of her as you would of a baby!



COMING HOME!


Once you have kitty proofed your house, it is time for your new pet to come home.  Unlike adopting a kitty that was born to a family pet and used to people, my rescue kittens and cats have been living outside most of their life without human contact or have been sitting in the shelters for months.


Even though the kitty is now socialized, everything will be new to them and they will be overwhelmed with the sudden change.  Kitties may be shy and scared at first so give them a few days to adjust.


  • Don’t just bring your kitten home and then open the carrier to let them run around.  Your kitty will panic and associate their new environment with that of discomfort.  It would equivalent to dropping you off in the middle of the desert and saying “Have Fun!”  I'll come back later to see if you survived!

  • Create a “safe room” for the kitty’s new arrival so they can get used to people and smells for at least (3) or more days.  It is best to put kitty in a small bathroom.  Believe it or not, the smaller the space you can find for the kitty to stay in the better! DO NOT put the kitty in a dark basement or garage.  

  • Put everything your kitten will need in this safe room such as toys, kitty condo’s, a covered bed, food, water and the litter box. Have people come in slowly to meet her after she has had time to adjust to the new room

  • Keep kitty in the safe room until you feel that they are settling in and ready to explore the rest of the house.  Let them go in one room at a time under your supervision. Do NOT let kitty run around unattended or get outside.  You will lose your kitten this way.  They run VERY fast and can get into the smallest of spaces!

  • Please review the page on Introducing Kitty to Your Pet if you already have a dog or cat in the house.  There is a very effective 10 step process to do this so that all of your pets feel safe and welcome.

  • If you have other pets, keep the kitty in their safe room and let the pets get to know each other from under the door.  They will smell each other and play footsie!  It is normal for there to be hissing and growling at the 1st smell. 

  • After a few days, you can let your kitten slowly interact to the other pets by letting them play for a few minutes only each day.  Feeding them together in the same area will strengthen the new bond as they get more comfortable with each other. 

  • You will need to allow your primary pet to feel like they are still #1 in the house! 

  • Do not give all your attention to the new kitten in front of your other pet.  It will create tension.  Hold and praise your primary pet before and during the interaction.  There should be no aggressive fighting or biting that looks dangerous.  You will know when it is safe to leave them alone together when they start grooming each other and sleeping together. 



IF YOU LOVE YOUR CAT...  DO NOT DECLAW AND USE COLLAR WITH ID


Dr. Nicholas Dodman, Professor of Behavioral Pharmacology and Director of the Behavior Clinic at Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine and internationally known specialist in domestic animal behavioral research, explains declawing:


"The inhumanity of the procedure is clearly demonstrated by the nature of cats' recovery from anesthesia following the surgery. Unlike routine recoveries, including recovery from neutering surgeries, which are fairly peaceful, declawing surgery results in cats bouncing off the walls of the recovery cage because of excruciating pain. Cats that are more stoic huddle in the corner of the recovery cage, immobilized in a state of helplessness, presumably by overwhelming pain. Declawing fits the dictionary definition of mutilation to a tee. Words such as deform, disfigure, disjoint, and dismember all apply to this surgery. Partial digital amputation is so horrible that it has been employed for torture of prisoners of war, and in veterinary medicine, the clinical procedure serves as model of severe pain for testing the efficacy of analgesic drugs. Even though analgesic drugs can be used postoperatively, they rarely are, and their effects are incomplete and transient anyway, so sooner or later the pain will emerge."


Why Cats Should Wear A Collar with ID?


All our kitties are microchipped but it only takes one time for the mailman, gardener, meter reader, neighbor or friend to leave the window open or the door ajar. Cats are curious creatures and will try to go outside.  As per your contract, KFK kitties are to be INDOOR ONLY PETS.


Please buy a "break-away" cat collar with an ID for your new kitty to wear.  Pet theft is also a daily occurrence. Well behaved pets are sold for research. Most shelters destroy the majority of pets they impound. They are destroyed only because they are not identified. If your cat does get outside, call us immediately so we can do Animal Communication to help locate your pet.  Collars and ID tags make it easier for your neighbor to contact you.  Not everyone knows to take a lost animal to the vet to be scanned for a micropchip.


If you have any questions or need help in the transition, please call 818-527-5287 or email us at michele@krazyforkats.com